Chiloé is an archipelago in Chile's Los Lagos Region, south of Puerto Montt. Its main island, Isla Grande de Chiloé, is separated from the mainland by the Chacao Channel, crossed by ferry from Pargua, 60 km from Puerto Montt. Its largest towns are Castro, the provincial capital, with 46,997 inhabitants, and Ancud, with 40,949, according to the 2024 Census.
The archipelago has more than 80 historic wooden churches, and 16 of them were declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2000. Santa María de Loreto in Achao, built around 1740 by Jesuit missionaries, is the oldest one still standing. Castro adds its palafitos, colorful houses built on stilts over the water.
On the Pacific coast, Chiloé National Park has protected 42,567 ha of evergreen forest since 1982, and off Ancud lie the Puñihuil Islets, one of the few places in the world where Humboldt and Magellanic penguins nest together. Chilote cooking, with curanto cooked in a pit and milcao, is part of the trip.
Castro is the provincial capital and the best base for exploring the island. Its San Francisco Church, built in 1910 from alerce, cypress, coigüe, raulí and olivillo wood, has been a National Monument since 1979 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. The palafitos can be seen from above at the Gamboa viewpoint or from the water, on boat rides from the port, best at sunset. 5 km away is the Nercón church, built without metal nails.
See toursThe 16 UNESCO-listed churches are in Castro, Nercón, Rilán, Dalcahue, Tenaún, Colo, San Juan, Chonchi, Vilupulli, Achao, Quinchao, Caguach, Chelín, Ichuac, Aldachildo and Detif. Sernatur suggests visiting nine over 3 days and 142 km, from Colo (70 km from Castro) to Chonchi, with its star-vaulted ceiling. Vilupulli, 15 km from Castro, has the tallest and most slender tower in the archipelago. Several are still active churches: check opening hours before you go.
See toursPuñihuil Islets Natural Monument, managed by CONAF, is a group of three islets off Puñihuil cove, in Ancud commune. Humboldt and Magellanic penguins nest there, and you can also spot the marine otter, or chungungo. The islets are seen by boat, on 30-minute trips from the cove; landing is not allowed. Access is via Route W-20 between Ancud and Pumillahue (23 km) and a turnoff of about 3 km to the beach.
See tours25 km from Castro, Dalcahue has a crafts fair where island artisans arrive by boat twice a week, with wool textiles, basketry and native-wood carvings. Its church, from 1849, has a 26 m tower. From the Dalcahue ramp, a ferry crosses in a few minutes to Quinchao Island, the second largest in the archipelago, with the Achao and Quinchao churches.
See toursThe most visited access is the Cucao-Chanquín sector: from Castro, take Route 5 south to the Notuco junction (24 km) and then 34.5 km to Cucao, about 90 minutes, with public transport. There you'll find an elevated trail of about 200 m with a viewpoint over Lake Cucao, coastal dunes and a campground run by the Chanquín indigenous community. From Ancud you reach the Chepu sector, where a 14 km coastal trail (about 5 hours) runs from Puerto Anguay to the Lar River. CONAF warns that the Pacific beaches are not safe for swimming.
See toursIn Chonchi commune, on the Pacific coast, this wooden pier was built as an extension of a cliff. It recalls the Chilote legend of the boatman Tempilkahue, who carries souls to their eternal rest. It's reached from Chonchi and is one of the most photographed spots on the island.
In Quemchi, Aucar Island is reached by a footbridge more than 430 m long. Near Castro, the Putemún wetland can be explored by kayak, with flamingos. In the south, Tantauco Park, a private protected area, has the Sunken Forest trail. A car of your own is the best way to reach Chepu and Tantauco.
Curanto en hoyo cooks seafood, smoked meats and sausages underground on hot stones, served with milcao and chapalele, two potato breads. Milcao is a fried native-potato bread filled with pork cracklings. The Dalcahue market has cookshops serving curanto, cazuela and fish.
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| Month | High | Low | Daylight |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 19°C 67°F | 10°C 51°F | 14.9 h |
| Feb | 20°C 68°F | 11°C 52°F | 13.7 h |
| Mar | 18°C 64°F | 9°C 49°F | 12.3 h |
| Apr | 15°C 58°F | 8°C 46°F | 10.9 h |
| May | 13°C 55°F | 7°C 44°F | 9.7 h |
| Jun | 10°C 50°F | 5°C 41°F | 9.1 h |
| Jul | 10°C 50°F | 4°C 40°F | 9.4 h |
| Aug | 11°C 51°F | 5°C 40°F | 10.5 h |
| Sep | 12°C 53°F | 5°C 41°F | 11.8 h |
| Oct | 14°C 56°F | 6°C 43°F | 13.3 h |
| Nov | 16°C 60°F | 8°C 46°F | 14.6 h |
| Dec | 18°C 64°F | 9°C 49°F | 15.2 h |
2015–2024 averages calculated from Open-Meteo historical data (ERA5 reanalysis). They may differ by one or two degrees from the local weather station.
You can visit year-round, but November to March is the best time for Chiloé National Park and outdoor trips, according to CONAF. The climate is oceanic, rainy and changeable in any month: bring waterproof and warm clothing.
December to February
High season: long days, boat trips at Puñihuil, Chiloé National Park trails and traditional food fairs. It can rain even in summer.
March to May
March is still within the park's best season. After that there are fewer visitors and more rain; churches and markets stay open.
June to August
The rainiest season, with the shortest days. Puñihuil boat trips run on winter hours, until 5:30 pm. A good time for the churches route and Chilote food.
September to November
Days get longer, and from November the best season for Chiloé National Park begins. The weather stays changeable: pack layers and a rain jacket.
There are flights from Santiago to Mocopulli Airport (MHC), between Castro and Dalcahue, taking about 2 hours. The alternative is to fly to El Tepual Airport (PMC) in Puerto Montt and continue overland to Pargua to cross the Chacao Channel.
Pargua is 60 km from Puerto Montt. There you cross the Chacao Channel by ferry to Chacao, on Isla Grande, and Route 5 continues to Ancud and Castro.
It's 1,100 km on Route 5 South, about 12 hours of driving without stops. By bus, the trip to Castro takes about 14 hours, including the channel crossing.
3 days cover Castro, Dalcahue, some of the churches and Chiloé National Park. With 4 or 5 you can add the Puñihuil penguins, Quinchao Island and Chonchi.
Castro: San Francisco Church, stilt houses from the Gamboa viewpoint and a sunset boat ride; Nercón church.
Chiloé National Park at Cucao: Chanquín elevated trail and dunes. On the way back, Vilupulli, Chonchi and the Muelle de las Almas.
Dalcahue and its market, ferry to Quinchao and the Achao church.
Ancud and the Puñihuil Islets penguins by boat.
Northern churches (Tenaún, Colo, San Juan) or Aucar Island in Quemchi.
In Chile's Los Lagos Region, south of Puerto Montt. Isla Grande de Chiloé is separated from the mainland by the Chacao Channel, crossed by ferry from Pargua, 60 km from Puerto Montt.
Fly from Santiago to Mocopulli Airport (MHC), between Castro and Dalcahue, in about 2 hours. Overland, drive to Pargua and take the ferry across the Chacao Channel. From Santiago it's 1,100 km on Route 5 South; by bus, about 14 hours to Castro.
16, declared by UNESCO in 2000, out of more than 80 historic wooden churches in the archipelago. The oldest still standing is Achao's, from around 1740.
At Puñihuil Islets Natural Monument, in Ancud commune, where Humboldt and Magellanic penguins nest. You see them from the boat, on 30-minute trips from Puñihuil cove; landing on the islets is not allowed.
Take Route 5 south to the Notuco junction (24 km) and then 34.5 km to Cucao, about 90 minutes. There is public transport to Cucao.
At least 3: Castro, Chiloé National Park, and Dalcahue with Quinchao Island. With 4 or 5 days you can add the Puñihuil penguins and the churches in the north of the island.
November to March, according to CONAF, for Chiloé National Park. You can still go year-round: the climate is rainy and changeable in every season, so waterproof clothing is a must.
Curanto en hoyo (seafood and meats cooked underground on hot stones), plus milcao and chapalele, two potato breads. The Dalcahue market has cookshops serving curanto and cazuela.
