Esquel y El Bolsón travel guide
Esquel, in northwest Chubut, and El Bolsón, in southwest Río Negro, are the two towns of the Comarca Andina del Paralelo 42° in Argentine Patagonia. El Bolsón is about 130 km south of Bariloche on Route 40, and between the two towns lie Los Alerces and Lago Puelo national parks, close to the Chilean border.
Esquel (593 m, 37,019 residents in the 2022 census) is the gateway to Los Alerces National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017, and the base of La Trochita, the narrow-gauge "Old Patagonian Express". El Bolsón (315 m, 24,276 residents in the municipality) sits at the foot of Piltriquitrón mountain, has a regional crafts fair that dates from the 1970s, and is minutes from Lago Puelo National Park.
It is a year-round destination: summer is for lakes, forests and hiking, and winter for snow at La Hoya, Esquel's ski resort, and Cerro Perito Moreno near El Bolsón.
Things to do in Esquel y El Bolsón
- 1
Los Alerces National Park
Created in 1937, it protects 259,822 hectares of Patagonian forest and the largest stretch of Valdivian rainforest in Argentina, with alerce, coihue, arrayán and colihue cane. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017. The best-known tree is the Alerce Abuelo: almost 60 m tall, over 2.2 m in diameter and about 2,600 years old; the oldest known alerce grove is on the North Arm of Lake Menéndez. Wildlife includes the pudú, the kodkod, the huemul and the Los Alerces frog, found only on one island in Lake Menéndez. From Esquel, Villa Futalaufquen (the park's administrative center) is 52 km away via routes 259 and 71.
See tours - 2
Boat trips and the Torrecillas Glacier trek
Esquel's tourism office lists, inside Los Alerces, a trek to the Torrecillas Glacier that combines a boat ride and a hike. Lake excursions leave from Villa Futalaufquen and the piers on Lakes Futalaufquen and Menéndez.
See tours - 3
La Trochita, the Old Patagonian Express
A 75 cm narrow-gauge train with steam locomotives from 1922, running for more than 70 years. Today it operates as a tourist ride from Esquel station, mainly to Nahuel Pan, and also from El Maitén. Tickets are sold online and passengers should arrive one hour before departure.
See tours - 4
La Hoya: skiing and summer
It opened in 1974 on the initiative of the Club Andino Esquel and is Esquel's highest mountain, with snow well into spring. In summer you can ride up to the La Hoya viewpoint, which is also a paragliding launch.
See tours - 5
Adventure around Esquel: horseback, rafting and ice tunnels
Esquel's tourism office lists horseback rides with local guides, summer rafting on the Corcovado River (south of town), ice tunnels on a 4x4 excursion and Piedra Parada, a volcanic formation on the Chubut River. Paragliding launches are Cerro 21 and the La Hoya viewpoint.
See tours - 6
Regional fair and Piltriquitrón (El Bolsón)
El Bolsón's Regional Crafts Fair, on the main square, has more than 230 stalls of wool goods, knives, natural jams and ceramics and dates from the 1970s. Above town rises Piltriquitrón ("hanging from the clouds" in Mapudungun), with hiking, paragliding and the Bosque Tallado, a forest with 61 sculptures carved into the trees.
See tours - 7
Cabeza del Indio, Cascada Escondida and Mallín Ahogado
From El Bolsón a viewpoint circuit looks toward the Río Azul and the Cabeza del Indio rock formation, and forest trails lead from there to Cascada Escondida and a botanical garden. The Mallín Ahogado circuit adds farms with berries and craft beer. Local festivals include the Hop Festival and the Fiesta Regional de la Chicha.
- 8
Lago Puelo National Park
Created in 1971 (it used to be an annex of Los Alerces), it protects over 27,000 hectares of transition between Andean Patagonian forest and Valdivian rainforest. Its turquoise lake lies at about 200 m, in one of the lowest parts of the Andes. It is open daily 9 am to 7 pm and the only access is Provincial Route 16. You can camp, swim, boat and fish. The entry permit is valid for 72 hours.
See tours
GetYourGuide affiliate links: if you book, we earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Esquel y El Bolsón weather
| Month | High | Low | Daylight |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 22°C 71°F | 8°C 47°F | 14.9 h |
| Feb | 23°C 73°F | 9°C 47°F | 13.8 h |
| Mar | 19°C 65°F | 6°C 44°F | 12.3 h |
| Apr | 14°C 56°F | 4°C 39°F | 10.9 h |
| May | 9°C 48°F | 1°C 34°F | 9.7 h |
| Jun | 6°C 42°F | -2°C 29°F | 9.1 h |
| Jul | 5°C 41°F | -2°C 28°F | 9.4 h |
| Aug | 7°C 44°F | -1°C 30°F | 10.4 h |
| Sep | 9°C 49°F | 0°C 31°F | 11.8 h |
| Oct | 13°C 55°F | 2°C 35°F | 13.3 h |
| Nov | 17°C 62°F | 5°C 41°F | 14.6 h |
| Dec | 20°C 68°F | 7°C 45°F | 15.3 h |
2015–2024 averages calculated from Open-Meteo historical data (ERA5 reanalysis). They may differ by one or two degrees from the local weather station.
Best time to visit Esquel y El Bolsón
December to March for lakes, forests and hiking; July to September for skiing at La Hoya and Cerro Perito Moreno. Spring is quieter and the sport fishing season opens in November. In winter the park can be covered in snow.
Summer
December to February
High season. In El Bolsón the average January high is about 27 °C (81 °F). It is the time for rafting, boat trips in the park, lake beaches and hiking.
Autumn
March to May
Temperatures drop and the forests change color. Fewer visitors in the parks.
Winter
June to August
The July mean temperature is about 1.7 °C (35 °F) in Esquel and 3.5 °C (38 °F) in El Bolsón. It is ski season at La Hoya, which keeps snow well into spring, and at Cerro Perito Moreno. For Los Alerces, check road conditions with Vialidad Nacional.
Spring
September to November
Milder than winter and quiet. The 2026-2027 sport fishing season opens at Pueblo Carao on Sunday, November 1.
How to get to Esquel y El Bolsón
By air
Esquel has scheduled flights to Buenos Aires (Aeroparque) and, in winter, direct flights from Córdoba. For El Bolsón and Lago Puelo, most visitors fly to Bariloche or Esquel and continue by road.
By road
Bariloche to El Bolsón is about 130 km on Route 40. To Los Alerces from Esquel, take routes 259 and 71 (52 km to Villa Futalaufquen; the Portada Centro entrance is 38 km away); from El Bolsón, Route 40 and Provincial 71 to the Portada Norte (105 km). Lago Puelo is reached from Bariloche on Route 40 and Provincial 16 (about 145 km) and from Esquel (about 155 km) via Route 40 through El Hoyo to Cerro Radal. Long-distance buses serve Esquel, and local buses run to Villa Futalaufquen and Lago Puelo.
How many days in Esquel y El Bolsón
Four to six days cover both towns and both parks: two days for Esquel and Los Alerces, and two or three for El Bolsón and Lago Puelo.
Day 1
Esquel: La Trochita (Nahuel Pan) and Laguna La Zeta reserve.
Day 2
Los Alerces National Park: Villa Futalaufquen, Lake Menéndez and the Alerce Abuelo.
Day 3
Transfer to El Bolsón via Route 40 and Provincial 71; regional fair.
Day 4
Piltriquitrón and the Bosque Tallado, or Cabeza del Indio and Cascada Escondida.
Day 5
Lago Puelo National Park: beach, boat trip or trails.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Esquel and El Bolsón?
Four to six days. Esquel and Los Alerces take about 2 days; El Bolsón and Lago Puelo National Park, 2 or 3.
What is the best time to visit Esquel and El Bolsón?
December to March for lakes, hiking and rafting; July to September for skiing at La Hoya and Cerro Perito Moreno. Spring is quieter and sport fishing opens in November.
How do you get to Los Alerces National Park from Esquel?
Take Route 259 and Provincial 71: it is 52 km to Villa Futalaufquen and 38 km to the Portada Centro entrance. A daily bus runs from Esquel to Villa Futalaufquen. Provincial 71 reaches all three entrances (Sur, Centro and Norte); from El Bolsón the Portada Norte is 105 km away.
How much does it cost to enter Los Alerces and Lago Puelo?
Fees change, so check with each park's office before you travel. At Lago Puelo the entry permit is valid for 72 hours and, for now, is not charged.
What is La Trochita?
The Old Patagonian Express, a 75 cm narrow-gauge train with steam locomotives from 1922. Today it runs tourist rides from Esquel station, mainly to Nahuel Pan.
What is there to see in El Bolsón?
The Regional Crafts Fair on the main square, Piltriquitrón mountain and its Bosque Tallado, Cabeza del Indio, Cascada Escondida and Lago Puelo National Park.